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If you are dealing with airborne noise transfer between two levels then you can either treat the ceiling or treat the floors. This page will discuss your options for both methods.

Often complete demolition of a room's ceiling is not possible. If you are struggling with sound isolation between floors, but are limited with your options, then you can still accomplish quite a bit without too much construction.

In Order Of Least Effective To Most Effective:

• Insulation: Add insulation between the floor joists if there is not currently insulation. Think of the empty cavity between your floor joists as a drum. You need to fill this area with insulation so sound will not have a clear path through your ceiling drywall to the sub-floor above. You can do this without removing the drywall by cutting 2" circles in your ceiling between each joist and 'blowing in' the insulation. We only recommend regular fiberglass insulation that fits between your joists and studs properly. Any other type of insulation and any R rating beyond what is standard for the ceiling cavity meets the point of diminishing returns. This will provide minimal improvement for overall isolation, but it is a crucial requirement in lowering the resonance frequency of your ceiling. This option shouldn't be considered a stand alone way to isolate sound. It is considered more as an important addition to the below options.
• TotalMass Barrier: We have multiple weights of TotalMass Barrier for your project including 1/2 pound, 1 pound, and 2 pound. The most common mass loaded vinyl installed is 1 pound due to affordability, ease of installation (weighs less, easier to unroll), and performance. TotalMass Barrier can be installed over the top of your current drywall (attaching into the studs) and then from there you can install another layer of drywall over the top of the barrier to finish like any other ceiling. Adding a layer of 1 LB TotalMass Barrier to an insulated wall will provide STC ratings in the mid to high 40's and OITC ratings in the mid 30's. Note: These ratings are based off of the use of 1 LB TotalMass Barrier only. If you installed 2 LB TotalMass Barrier then the results would be in line with using Green Glue Compound between two layers of drywall.  
• Green Glue Compound and Mass: Add a layer of 5/8" drywall to the current layer of drywall with Green Glue Compound in between at a rate of 2 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet. If you had to cut 2" holes to insulate the ceiling then make sure to patch these holes before putting up the final layer of drywall with Green Glue Compound. Adding a layer of drywall with Green Glue Compound to an insulated wall will provide STC ratings in the low to mid 50's and OITC ratings in the mid to high 30's.
• Layering Green Glue Compound: Since you are unable to remove the current layer of drywall you will not be able to include decoupling in your isolation efforts (ie, Green Glue Clips, GenieClips, or RSIC-1). To improve isolation beyond an additional layer of drywall and Green Glue Compound you should consider layering the Green Glue. Applying Green Glue in multiple layers is the most effective way to apply Green Glue. Add two layers of 5/8" drywall to the current layer of drywall with Green Glue in between each layer at a rate of either 1 tube per 4' x 8' sheet or 2 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet. Using 3 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet at any point between these layers will have an unnoticeable improvement in high frequencies, but dramatic improvement in low frequencies. Depending on the amount of layering and how much Green Glue is used per layer, this method will provide STC ratings in the high 50's and OITC ratings in the high 30's to low 40's.

An average wood framed ceiling will have an STC rating of around 35. Adding products like our TotalMass Barrier and/or Green Glue Compound to an existing ceiling is an affordable way to increase your ceiling's ability to reduce sound transmission to an acceptable level. Without removing the drywall from your existing ceiling you will be limited to using damping, mass, and absorption in your sound isolation efforts. For a higher level of isolation you will need to remove the existing drywall to get to the exposed framing. The options from there increase dramatically. These options are discussed in the next section.

All isolation methods are available with if you are able to remove the existing layer of drywall.

In Order Of Least Effective To Most Effective:

• Insulation: Add insulation between the joists using regular unfaced R-19 fiberglass batts for standard ceiling joist depth. Without filling this space with insulation, sound can easily travel between the studs without any resistance. Adding insulation is not a significant improvement, but definitely provides an affordable boost to the STC rating.
• TotalMass Barrier: We have multiple weights of TotalMass Barrier for your project including 1/2 pound, 1 pound, and 2 pound. The most common mass loaded vinyl installed is 1 pound due to affordability, ease of installation (weighs less, easier to unroll), and performance.  MLV can be installed directly to your joists and then hang a layer of drywall over the MLV to finish like any other ceiling. You can also include this option with a resilient sound clip system by attaching clips, then hat channel, then a layer of drywall, then TotalMass Barrier, and then a final layer of drywall. Adding a layer of 1 pound MLV to an insulated ceiling will provide STC ratings around the mid to high 40's and OITC ratings in the mid 30's. Note: These ratings are based off of the use of 1 LB TotalMass Barrier only.  If you installed 2 LB TotalMass Barrier then the results would be in line with using Green Glue Compound between two layers of drywall.
• Green Glue Compound and Mass: Use double layer 5/8" drywall with Green Glue Compound in between at a rate of 2 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet of drywall. For increased performance use either 3 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet or another layer of drywall with Green Glue Compound between each layer. This method will provide STC ratings in the mid 50's and OITC ratings in the mid to high 30's. Adding an additional layer of drywall and Green Glue will increase the STC ratings into the high 50's and OITC ratings to the high 30' to low 40's.
• Resilient Sound Clips: Decouple the drywall from the joists using one of our resilient sound clips. The most effective clips on the market at this point are the Green Glue Clips, GenieClips, and the RSIC-1 clips. Attach the sound clip of your choice directly to the joist and then attach a furring hat channel to the sound clips. In a typical ceiling, sound vibrates the drywall which in turn vibrates the framing and the vibrations (sound) spreads through the rest of the structure. Resilient sound clips and hat channel decouple the drywall from the framing so that much of this energy is lost, from the wall's increased flexibility, before it even reaches the framing. We recommend hanging double layer 5/8" drywall from the hat channel to add significant mass to the ceiling. Resilient sound clips perform best with extra mass which helps lower resonance frequency. It is also important to note that the effect of extra mass is more noticeable in decoupled systems. This method will provide STC ratings in the low to mid 60's and OITC ratings in the high 40's.
• Decoupling, Damping, Mass, and Absorption: Include insulation, resilient sound clips, and double layer drywall with Green Glue Compound in between layers of drywall (or MLV between layers of drywall). This is definitely the most expensive method, but the results will be a huge improvement. This method will provide STC ratings in the high 60's and OITC ratings in the low to mid 50's which is an improvement of over 5 times a standard ceiling.

If your main concern is structure-borne noise (ie, footfall, furniture moving, impact noise), then your best option is to always treat the source. The main objective to reducing sound transmission is to keep vibrations from reaching the structure's framing. When someone steps on a floor the sound hits the sub-floor and immediately transfers into the framing where it can transmit freely to the rest of the structure. Here are the most effective methods to reduce sound transfer from an upstairs room to a room below.

In Order Of Least Effective To Most Effective:

• TotalMass Barrier: The most common mass loaded vinyl installed is 1 pound due to affordability, ease of installation (weighs less, easier to unroll), and performance. However, as an underlayment, the 2 LB TotalMass Barrier is preferred because of the thickness (1/4" rather than 1/8") and the extreme weight compared to the basic 1 LB. So for airborne noise the 1 LB TotalMass Barrier is a viable option.  But to reduce impact noise as well, the 2 LB TotalMass Barrier is recommended. TotalMass Barrier can be installed free floating without attachment if the flooring installed over the top is free floating.  If your flooring needs to be glued down or mortared then you will need to glue down the TotalMass Barrier as well. Adding a layer of 1 LB MLV to an insulated ceiling will provide STC ratings in the mid to high 40's and OITC ratings in the mid 30's. Adding a layer of 2 LB MLV to an insulated ceiling will provide estimated STC ratings in the low 50's and OITC ratings in the high 30's.
• Green Glue Compound and Mass: This option is only possible when upgrading a wood sub-floor. Attach an additional layer of sub-floor (of minimal thickness) with Green Glue Compound in between at a rate of 2 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet of material. For increased performance with impact noise use 3 tubes per 4' x 8' sheet of material. The new layer of sub-floor will still need to be screwed into the existing sub-floor like any Green Glue installation. Green Glue Compound is an effective solution for low frequency problems which most noise generated by footfall will be in the low frequency range. This method will provide STC ratings in the mid 50's and OITC ratings in the mid to high 30's.
• Rubber Underlayment: Our QuietGround 250 and QuietGround 375 are the highest performing stand alone products for isolating impact noise and general airborne noise that we sell.  Installation for rubber underlayment is straight forward and can be installed directly under a wide range of flooring materials. QuietGround Underlayment can be installed free floating without attachment if the flooring installed over the top is free floating. If your flooring needs to be glued down or mortared then you will need to glue down the QuietGround as well. The QG250 is the most commonly purchased underlayment because of the minimal cost and high performance. The QG375 will provide a large increase in isolating impact noise and a noticeable improvement in isolating airborne noise as well. The QuietGround 250 will provide STC ratings in the high 40's to low 50's and IIC ratings in the low to high 50's. The QuietGround 375 will provide STC ratings in the low 50's to low 60's and IIC ratings in the mid 50's to low 60's.
• Layering Of Green Glue Compound and Rubber Underlayment: Like most sound isolation methods, layering materials together will help improve performance in a wider range of frequencies. To achieve maximum results we recommend utilizing both Green Glue Compound and QuietGround 250 or 375 in your floors. Using Green Glue Compound will require the addition of a layer of sub-floor so the Green Glue can compress between two rigid materials, but from there you would simply overlay the new sub-floor with a roll of QuietGround. If you use Green Glue and QuietGround 250 together then you can expect an estimated STC rating in the high 50's and an IIC rating in the high 50's to low 60's. Using QuietGround 375 over the QuietGround 250 in the same setup would achieve an estimated STC rating in the low 60's and an IIC rating in the mid 60's.

Here are a few notes for you to remember when upgrading your walls:

• Always seal gaps in your walls by using Green Glue Sealant or a silicone caulk. Green Glue Sealant is a flexible and easy to use acoustical caulk that is crucial to maintaining high STC ratings.  
• Never attach resilient sound clips, resilient channel, or furring strip directly over the drywall. This will cause a triple leaf effect which will completely negate your efforts.  You can still achieve some improvement in attaching resilient sound clips over existing drywall, but the results will be significantly reduced because of the triple leaf.  
• Always insulate between ceiling joists. Different types of insulation won't do much to actually isolate sound, but if your ceiling cavity is not filled with some type of insulation then sound will bounce around in the empty wall cavities and pass through the drywall with ease.
• Do not treat your ceiling with insulation alone. Absorption provides a minimal improvement overall to reducing sound transmission mostly because it only treats the space between the joists. Much of the sound passing through the ceiling is passing through the drywall into the framing. Insulation does nothing to address this issue.
• Increasing mass is important, but to really reduce sound transmission significantly you will need to add several layers of drywall. The best alternative to avoid hanging layer after layer would be to include Green Glue Compound between two or three layers of drywall.

Please contact us for project advice if you need help making a decision on which method is most appropriate for your situation.