Sound tests are done using the staggered layout option. Roughly 10% more clips are required with the staggered layout option. Actual improvement in results over the standard layout option is marginal.

Standard Layout		Staggered Layout

• Layout and mark the clip pattern on the studs. Begin with the outermost studs, and mark the vertical column of clips from the floor to the ceiling. (Note: The outermost studs must be fully clipped and mirror one another in order to support the ends of the hat channel). The bottom clip should be a maximum of 3" on center from the floor, and the top clip should be no more than 6" on center from the ceiling. The remaining clips should be a maximum of 24" on center from one another*. With a chalk line, mark each row of clips against the studs. Using the chalk line as your horizontal reference, measure a maximum of 48" on center between clips from left to right along each row. Begin at the bottom and work your way towards the ceiling. If you are using the staggered layout, shift your starting point by 16" to the right for each new row (see images). Do not worry that some clips will be less than 48" away from those on the terminating studs. This will in no way adversely affect performance.
  * For one or two layers of drywall, space the hat channel rows 24" on center. For 3 layers of drywall, space the hat channel rows 16" on center.
• Mount the clips. Attach the clips to the layout markings on your studs using the appropriate fasteners specified above. These can be purchased from any hardware store or by clicking here. Ensure that the screws are securely fastened, as to hold the clips in place, but be careful not to over-torque them, as this could result in decreased sound performance.
• Install the hat channel. Place the bottom side of the hat channel into the clip, then squeeze it enough to snap the top of the hat channel into the clip. When joining hat channel along the same row, overlap 6" of channel between clips and secure it with a 7/16" steel stud framing screw at the midway point on each side. Never join hat channel at a clip junction, as clips are not designed to hold more than one layer of channel. 
• Hang drywall. Place either Sound Isolation Strip or 1/4" temporary spacers along the floor before hanging the drywall on walls. Hang your drywall perpendicular (vertical) to the hat channel. Keep a 1/8"-1/4" gap along the perimeter of the wall assembly to maintain decoupling between the walls, floor and ceiling. When you have installed one wall, caulk the perimeter of it using Green Glue Acoustical Sealant before moving to the next.

Staggered Layout With Clip Spacing and Hat Channel Spacing

• If you are installing clips on the ceiling and walls, complete the ceiling assembly first (clips, channel, drywall, sealant). The wall is always clipped in relation to the ceiling. A ceiling may require extra adjustments to ensure it is level, as ceiling joist depths sometimes vary, especially in older homes. By installing the ceiling assembly first, and using Green Glue Sealant along the perimeters, an additional sound block against flanking noise is created, as well as a fire stop to meet building codes in some states. When properly installed, ceiling drywall should butt up against the wall frame, overlapping behind the wall assembly, and the wall drywall should butt up against the ceiling drywall. 
• When splicing hat channel, overlap the hat channel by 6 inches. Secure this splice with two 7/16" steel stud framing screws through both sides of the 45° angle of the hat channel.
• When splicing hat channel, the overlap needs to occur between two clips. The clip itself cannot properly hold a double layer of hat channel.
• Clips should not exceed 48 inches on center.
• Hat channel row spacing should not exceed 24 inches on center and generally should run perpendicular to the joists or studs.
• Attach the bottom row of clips at 3" or less from the floor to help attach the baseboard and within 6" of the ceiling to help support the drywall near the angle.
• Clips on the ceiling must be installed within 6" of the perimeter to help support the drywall near the angle. If there is not a truss near the angle, you will need to add additional framing to help support this perimeter row of clips.
• Clips on the walls must be installed within 6" of the side of the wall to help support the drywall near the angle. If necessary, you will need to add additional wood near the angles of the room to properly install the clips.
• You must seal the wall after you install the drywall to ensure the sound isolation integrity of your assembly. Use a product like Green Glue Sealant to seal the 1/8"-1/4" gap along the entire perimeter, as well as any electrical outlets or openings. If you are finishing your wall with a standard finish (i.e. paint, texture, wallpaper, tile, etc.), there is no need to caulk any non-perimeter drywall joints. Simply tape and mud them as normal. If you are finishing your wall in a non-conventional covering that does not require taping/mudding (i.e. fabric, acoustic panel or foam, etc.), then you must also caulk the drywall joints.

For each of the resilient sound clips, the recommended hat channel is either 2-1/2" or 2-5/8" wide x 7/8" high and 25 gauge for added resiliency. Some companies specify 22 gauge for ceiling installations, but 25 gauge is heavy enough. We reccomend 25 gauge over 22 or 20 gauge for easier installation and 25 gauge also provides a more resilient system which will lead to better STC ratings. Hat channel is sold in 12' or 10' lengths from any local drywall supply yard or lumber yard that carries steel stud framing products. It can be special ordered from stores like Home Depot or Lowe's.

You can also purchase hat channel from our store in 6' lengths. Our hat channel ships from our Idaho location. Click here to view our hat channel product page.

An issue not often discussed is what to do with your electrical outlets on walls with resilient sound clips installed. The easiest method to deal with this issue is by hard-wiring your electrical and not installing the outlets until after the drywall has been installed. Here are the simple steps to accomplishing this:

• Run the electrical wire about 8" beyond where the outlet will be installed.
• Attach a wire staple to the stud to secure the wire at the correct height for outlet placement.
• When hanging the drywall, mark the drywall where the wire will need to be pulled through and cut a hole large enough for the wire to be pulled through.
• Pull the wire through the hole that you have cut. Do not leave the wire behind the drywall to 'fish' later. Any mistakes that need to be patched may reduce the effectiveness of the sound clips.
• When the drywall is finished you can install remodel boxes for your outlets. Mark the size of the remodel box on your wall by tracing around the outside of the box where the box should be installed.
• Cut out the traced lines, insert the box, and then wire the outlet as you would any other outlet.

The advantage of installing your electrical outlets using remodel boxes are twofold: First, the outlet box will be decoupled from the framing to maintain consistency with the rest of the wall's theme of decoupling; Second, the outlet will be properly flush and secure to the wall without having to deal with add-on extension boxes, extra framing, etc.